Some People Thought the Pandemic Would Kill Fine Dining. The Real Story Is More Complicated.
Photograph courtesy of Sushi Taro If you Google “Is fine dining dead?,” you’ll find countless articles from the last decade lamenting—or celebrating—its demise. So naturally, when the pandemic walloped the restaurant industry in March, people wondered if Covid would finally kill it off for good. Caviar to go from Masseria. Photograph by Daniel Swartz After all, multi-course tasting menus aren’t conducive to takeout or outdoor service. Our world is suddenly hands-off, and fine dining is inherently hands-on. When everything seems like it’s on fire, will vintage Champagne really m...