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Print The 6-inch cake that pastry chef Casey Shea delivered was a barrel-shaped whirl of salted vanilla buttercream, sequined with sliced berries and candied kumquats. On an early March menu, Shea had presented her customers, who ordered via Instagram, with four cake options: coconut chocolate, banana hazelnut, blood orange with lemon whip and blackberry and a surprise chef’s choice based on what she found at the farmers markets. A good kind of surprise could be uplifting right now, I thought. Springtime was in view. Maybe there’d be some ripe red fruit layered underneath the frosting? Ne...

Print As restaurant jobs have disappeared during the pandemic, there has been a boom in informal food pop-ups in Los Angeles, a rapidly evolving culture that has brought us smoked brisket and roti filled with chicken curry, fried bananas with salted caramel and lemon olive-oil cake. Every week, it seems, chefs post new menus listing creative, compelling takeout fare. For the food-obsessed in pursuit of a great meal, it’s been an opportunity to experience some of the best food Los Angeles has to offer. For chefs and bakers, however, it’s been a time of great uncertainty and stress. Many s...