Estuary Essex … exploring the grimy but lovely Thames near Tilbury
âAnd this also,â says Marlow, the narrator of Joseph Conradâs Heart of Darkness, âhas been one of the dark places of the Earth.â Heâs talking about the stretch of the Thames estuary near Tilbury in Essex, that is now bookended by the imposing pylons of the cable-stayed Queen Elizabeth II Bridge and the bulk liquid storage facilities of Canvey Island. Itâs a little downstream from Purfleet, which Dracula found a handy place to keep his 50 boxes of Transylvanian earth. Itâs just off the A13 â a road, according to Iain Sinclair, of âmemory, mess...