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A History of Italian Dining In Dallas


A History of Italian Dining In Dallas
Wende Stevenson, who now owns MoMo Italian Kitchen with her husband, Aaron Gross, entered the restaurant business working for Antonio “MoMo” Gattini in the late ’80s. She was 21. He was, she says, “the most fascinating man I’d ever met.” Fresh from Italy, he presented traditional dining in courses primi and secondi and was not interested in making concessions. Pasta sent out with the main course? Never! “I apologize, I’m Italian,” Gattini said in a disclaimer on the menu. Dallas had to be taught.
The bulk of the North Dallas restaurant’s recipes came from his mother, Fernanda Gosetti, the Julia Child of Northern Italy. She wrote more than 50 cookbooks and, along with her two sisters, revived the Milan-based culinary magazine ....

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Fette Biscottate Are the Best Part of a Homey Italian Breakfast


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The first time I had fette biscottate, I threw one in my mouth plain. I coughed. I choked. It did not taste like food. It tasted like one of those cheap, brown paper napkins from a fast-food restaurant.
If you’ve never encountered this Italian pantry staple, imagine a beautiful, fluffy piece of white bread, flattened a bit, and then toasted, toasted, and toasted again on the lowest toaster setting I’m talking like a two until it’s basically obliterated. The end result is hard as a rock but somehow not burnt, not even well done. It’s just, dry. Despite the fact that they are fundamentally just dry slices of actual wheat bread, fette biscottate have a lot more in common with cardboard. They’re so flavorless even my carb-obsessed 5-year-old will take one bite and spit it on the ground. ....

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