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The first thing to change was the portholes. After two weeks aboard the Maersk Kendal container ship I had an established morning routine: breakfast in the mess room after the officers going on watch had finished eating, then through the heavy metal door outside my cabin onto D-deck, down the metal stairs, then a walk along the metal deck, loomed over by stacks of containers the height of a church that flexed and creaked alarmingly. ....