Ghost Kitchens: Notes from Phoenix's Pandemic-Ravaged Restaurant Scene
In March, when the total number of COVID-19 cases in Arizona crept into double digits, chefs were worried. Fear had chilled the public. Staying home on Friday, Saturday, and other nights was becoming normal. “Business is down drastically,” one chef told me in mid-March. “I can’t tell you how many cancellations we’ve had,” said another. It was as if one day fate had flipped a switch and then, abruptly, restaurants were treading water in cement shoes. Again, this was when the number of total cases blipped past 10. This was when restaurants were worried about missing a spring boom se...