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okay, well, i had no idea it was that far. so i've just made my way up thousands of steps to this place, castle brown, which is in portofino, which is in liguria. and liguria is a crescent right on the coast of italy, bordering tuscany and france. they'll carry me out of here on a stretcher, but i don't mind because the food is amazing. >> i'm stanley tucci. i'm fascinated by my italian heritage, so i'm traveling across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. the rugged environment has made the ligurians tough and...

oh, wow. steep. is this -- okay, here we are, finally. i had no idea it was that far. so i've just made my way up thousands of steps to this place, castle brown, which is in portofino, which is in liguria. and liguria is a crescent right on the coast of italy, bordering tuscany and france. they'll carry me out of here on a stretcher, but i don't mind because the food is amazing. >> i'm stanley tucci. i'm fascinated by my italian heritage, so i'm traveling across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. the rugged e...

>> what does it mean, prebugin? that's the dialect, right? >> yeah. it is a dialect. when you boil -- >> yeah. >> you mix -- >> the blender. >> the blender. and then you have a dip. >> that's what you end up with? >> yeah. >> sensa formaggio. >> yes, without oil, just a little bit. yeah. now, matteo, the pasta. in italian, we call ravioli. in liguria, it's panzotti. >> panzotti. >> panzotti. it's the real typical ravioli in liguria, very simple because we have only herbs and pasta. >> and then move the ravioli. >> don't laugh at me.

>> 25-year-old matteo precis is carlo's head chef. >> okay, let's go.

A little portly. meanwhile, matteo is making a walnut sauce. >> taste. >> oh, wow. >> walnut. >> walnut. >> marjoram, olive oil, and there's rock salt. >> and that's it? >> that's it. >> beautiful. >> at a table on the terrace, it's time to ask one of italy's greatest chefs why ligurian seafood is appropriate for our times. >> wow .