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When somebody catches the wave of their life at any other spot on the planet, we instantly know it's special and celebrate it for that. Not at Nazaré.
Ben Marcus is a natural born writer who worked at Surfer Magazine as an editor for 10 years, and now has 15 published books with his name on them - well most of them, anyway. Born in San Francisco in 1960, Ben lived in the Santa Clara Valley until he moved to Santa Cruz with his mother Sue and younger brother Michael in 1970. Ben was a "Valley" trying to fit in with the cool kids during a time when Santa Cruz was a smaller, quieter, inexpensive hippie beach town. While walking home from Del Mar Middle School, down the hill toward Twin Lakes Beach, Ben saw a wave break at Middle Peak ...