Life, death and the spiritual thrill of surfing at the edge of the world
The beauty of surfing is inextricable with the fear of it. It’s as if the baptismal in the ocean were somehow both the original sin and its curative.
Source: latimes.com
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The beauty of surfing is inextricable with the fear of it. It’s as if the baptismal in the ocean were somehow both the original sin and its curative.