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The beauty of surfing is inextricable with the fear of it. It’s as if the baptismal in the ocean were somehow both the original sin and its curative.

We only spend a tiny fraction of our lives actually riding waves. The rest is spent waiting—and obsessing.

Host Jamie Brisick talks to award-winning Thad Ziolkowski about addiction, the acceptance of substance use in the arts, meditation, and more.

’I think when a surfer becomes a surfer, it’s almost like an obligation to be an environmentalist at the same time,’ said Kelly Slater. For years the clothing company Billabong used the tagline

With ‘The Drop,’ writer Thad Ziolkowski explores the connection between addiction and surfing by Ryan McDonald If ever a life called out to be transformed into a podcast, it is that of Rick “Raz” Rasmussen, a towheaded trafficker who jet-setted from jungle to red carpet before being gunned down in Harlem following a botched cocaine deal. He was 27, not far removed from a comfortable childhood in suburban Long Island. He was also a former U.S. surfing champion. Rasmussen’s appetite for danger is apparent from his first appearance in Thad Ziolkowski’s new book “The Drop: How the M...