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Co-ops are providing high-quality jobs largely unavailable in an industry notorious for its low wages and exploitation.

He became connected to the 8th Street Collective, a loose organization of Oakland residents, most of whom lost their jobs in the food industry and became active in local food distribution and mutual aid. This summer, the collective had an opportunity to fill an empty commercial space in Old Oakland where a restaurant wasn’t able to complete construction as planned. “We were talking about a potentially shared kitchen space, where folks could do pop ups and we could figure out what a new model could be,” Pareja says. That vision has since resulted in Understory, a new restaurant, bar and...