Slovakia: A cool wine region
Slovakia is finally emerging as a fine-wine region, thanks to the work of its vibrant small-producer scene, says Simon J Woolf.
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Slovakia is finally emerging as a fine-wine region, thanks to the work of its vibrant small-producer scene, says Simon J Woolf.
Outside of the Slobodné Vinárstvo winery in Hlohovec, western Slovakia, an affectionate German Shepherd named Luna insinuates herself in and out of our legs. The winery's co-owner Agnes Lovecka and I sip strong black coffee at a table freighted with sweet cheese and vanilla cakes, korbácik (an exceptionally stringy cheese), parenica (rolls of smoked cheese), charcuterie from a nearby farm and treska, a cod salad – which I'm fittingly informed is instrumental in soaking up hangovers. "Breakfast wine!" Mišo Kuropka bellows. Agnes' brother-in-law and business partner arrives at the tabl...