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With a memory from Bavaria in mind, Julia Tausch set out to make the best vegan bratwurst from scratch. Here's how to do it yourself.

With a memory from Bavaria in mind, Julia Tausch set out to make the best vegan bratwurst from scratch. Here's how to do it yourself.

I remember where I was when the baking revolution began. Do you? It was November 2006, and I was a test cook at Cook’s Illustrated magazine in Brookline, Mass., when I walked over to see what my colleagues were gawking at. It was a loaf of bread that my fellow test cook David Pazmiño had just transferred to a cooling rack. I remember the loud snaps and pops coming from the bread as it cooled, the glossy crust crackling. He cut off a slice, revealing an open, airy hole structure with a moist, custard crumb. It was extraordinary. “This was the recipe that democratized bread-baking,” says...