Inside the Dubious World of Olive Oil Labels
I needed a nice bottle of olive oil. We had moved across the country in January and were now in month three of the COVID-19 pandemic — my expectations were lowered enough that homemade pesto sounded like an extravagance. Helplessly bound to my own demographic profile (“buy local!” “spend a little more and buy quality!”), I found myself driving 25 minutes to the suburbs outside of Buffalo, all the way to a boutique olive oil store called Prima Oliva. Inside, the store telegraphed its status in the same way a boutique cigar or wine store would: medium-roast wood shelves and plenty o...