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Randall has weathered gentrification and health troubles but still stands strong as a fixture of the community. Randall Borne is a sturdy guy. He Randall's in Denver is a community pillar that needs support
5280 Where Our Food Editors Are Eating Right Now, July 2021 On the menu this month: slow-smoked carnitas tacos, seafood gumbo, and nourishing toasts and smoothie bowls. Patricia Kaowthumrong • Cole The fourth time’s apparently a charm for Randall Borne, the chef-owner behind Randall’s, which reopened off York Street and Bruce Randolph Avenue in January. The Louisiana native launched his eponymous Creole and Cajun restaurant as a food trailer in 1994 and occupied two brick-and-mortar locations at different times in Cole and Five Points, respectively, before closing his doors in 2018. Borne revived the spot this year to please fervent fans, who longed for his Southern specialties (think: spice-crusted pork chops and seafood-loaded gumbo) and community-centric ambience. The latter is evidenced by the continuous hum of regulars trading stories in the dining room, a space adorned with a striking floor-to-ceiling mural of Louis Armstrong by local artist Kiana Gatling. This summer, live music also will return to Randall’s, which hopefully is finally here to stay.
Hearth & Dram, the wood-fired eatery inside the Hotel Indigo, was gaining a reputation for some of the most interesting and adventurous dishes in town before it shut down when the pandemic hit last spring. The hotel initially said that the restaurant would reopen at some point, but Hearth & Dram's website now says the closure is permanent, and the hotel notes that it is in the process of developing a new concept to fill the space. Denver's hotel restaurant scene had become quite competitive in recent years, but reduced tourism and business travel in 2020 took quite a toll. Two long-anticipated restaurants are now open, however. Seasoned Swine, which had been serving from a food truck while putting the finishing touches on its Golden dining room, began seating with limited capacity this week, and Randall's, from chef/owner Randall Borne, officially launched on Friday, January 29, after minor setbacks postponed the opening a week. Borne is serving his Cajun and Creole cuisine for lunch and dinner daily.
Borne, a native of Edgard, Louisiana, has been cooking Creole and Cajun cuisine in various locations around Denver since the mid-1990s. He ran a food truck and catering business called the Cajun King from 1994 to 2007, then took over Marion's Lounge at 4042 York Street for two years; that building has since been demolished. In 2009, he moved into the former home of Pierre's Supper Club at 2157 Downing Street, running it as Randall's at Pierre's for five years. If you drive past that address today, though, you'll now see only rows of modern, three-story townhomes. After that, Borne moved Randall's into the New Climax, where blues bands and Louisiana cooking drew a cadre of devoted regulars. The windowless structure "looks like a strip club" and so wasn't particularly inviting for dinner guests," Borne said, shortly before the building's owner pulled the plug on Randall's in 2018.