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PCH passion project [restaurant review]

PCH passion project [restaurant review]
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Fruition chef Alison Cruddas. Photos by JP Cordero
by Richard Foss
Most businesses follow strategies dictated by marketing studies.
Then there are places like Fruition Organic Market, which moved into the former El Tarasco location at Goat Hill in Manhattan Beach. I’m pretty much certain that no marketing consultants were involved in the choice of location, menu, hours, or anything else. The business is located in the slightly shabby Goat Hill development and has poor visibility; their hours are odd – they serve breakfast but don’t open until 10 a.m., after most people have their first meal of the day; and they close at 3 p.m. so miss any potential dinner business. ....

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New bakery and fish restaurants, update on planned openings, tamales at a coffeehouse, and other dining news

New bakery and fish restaurants, update on planned openings, tamales at a coffeehouse, and other dining news
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Little French Bakery owners Guillaume and Deborah Sabbadin offer a wide range of pastries. Photo
As we pass another month with neither indoor or outdoor dining in Los Angeles County, South Bay restaurateurs seem to remain cautiously optimistic. Few permanent closures have been announced, there have been some openings, and new projects have been announced. We’ll start this week’s column with some of that sweet good news.
A Little Wonder: The South Bay has a new destination for pastry lovers, the aptly named Little French Bakery. Owners Guillaume and Deborah Sabbadin bring authentic techniques to a little space next to the Coffee Cartel in Riviera Village. On most days they are selling out of pastries by late afternoon even though they’re theoretically open until 7 p.m.. They also offer brioche, baguettes, and sandwiches, and plan to make more ty ....

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Take Out Reimagined [restaurant review]

Take Out Reimagined [restaurant review]
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Chef Tyler Giugliotta making fresh pasta in the tiny kitchen at Baran s 2239. Photo by JP Cordero
A Southern meal from Baran’s 2239 includes a blackened double-cut pork chop, center, with black-eyed peas, maple crisp, redeye gravy, and pureed sweet potatoes. Photo by JP Cordero
The history of commerce is full of companies that leaped boldly into a new business, with unfortunate results. The Enfield rifle company’s excursion into making lawnmowers was successful compared to Colgate’s attempt at selling frozen lasagna, and both were lucrative compared to the Bic pen company’s foray into women’s underwear. These strategies must have made sense to somebody in management, but it’s hard to figure out why. ....

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All chicken, all the time [restaurant review]

All chicken, all the time [restaurant review]
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Bird Talk offers its original chicken sandwich with buttermilk ranch mayo and a Cajun chicken sandwich with a ghost pepper aioli. Photo by JP Cordero
A Bird Talk dinner unboxed. From top left, a spicy chicken sandwich, Parmesan wings, original sandwich, tots, and Nashville half chicken. Photo
Thanks to the pandemic I’ve been gravitating toward restaurants that offer food that travels well. Looking at it from a historical perspective, this makes fried chicken a natural. It was a component of picnic lunches in the mid-19th century, a staple at the Harvey House railroad cafes in the 1870s, and the only entrée offered for the first inflight dinners in the 1930s. When properly made it has the combination of salt, spice, crunchy batter, and succulent meat to please almost everybody, even if it’s served some distance from where it’s made. It’s probably the most hallowed take-out meal in American cuisin ....

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Caribbean, meet Manhattan Beach [restaurant review]

Caribbean, meet Manhattan Beach [restaurant review]
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Mia’s Kitchen owner Lisa Salinas with Chef Silas making a Trinidadian flatbread. Photo .
There’s a common cliché about the cranky old person trying to explain how awful things were when they were young. An example for someone who appreciates good restaurants might be to say, “In my youth, Manhattan Beach had two Chinese restaurants, one Mexican place, and everything else was a diner, bar & grill, or steakhouse.” That level of cultural deprivation is unimaginable to someone who grew up in the multicultural dining destination we are now.
The latest addition to the world of dining choices is by far the most interesting in recent memory. Mia’s Cafe popped up in the former Sando’s space on Rosecrans, serving food from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. The cuisine has been shaped by Spanish, French, Dutch, and British colonialism, as well as large populations of slaves and workers from Africa, Easte ....

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