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My New Orleans   I now weigh 157 pounds. That is not, statistically, a lot for a man of my age and height. The problem is that whereas some people can wear weight well, at 157 pounds I look something like a pincushion. A beautiful, blue-eyed pincushion, but a pincushion nevertheless… I would blame the pandemic, but I worked from home before we had to start sheltering in place so that’s probably not it. I have been exercising less, I suppose, and that could have something to do with it. But mainly I think it’s because what I’ve been cooking has tended toward the “rich” end of the ...

My New Orleans   Last week I apologized for the light tone of the piece I was writing in the context of ever-rising numbers of COVID infections and the prospect of a mutated strain that would be even more infectious. I was naïve, or as another famous man said recently, “WHAT A SCHMUCK I AM!” Yesterday was Epiphany, the 9th anniversary of my marriage and the day my father-in-law got his vaccine shot. As is our habit, my wife and I enjoyed a meal from Ancora, which was delicious as always, but this year we spent most of the time in front of the television in our kitchen, watching rednecks...

My New Orleans 12/17/2020   I like Donald Link and have since I first met him. He wrote a letter to the editor that was published in The Advocate the other day, and I think he pretty effectively expressed the issue a lot of restaurants have. There are risks in everything, and dining indoors is not something I would do at the moment, but private gatherings have been a larger source of infection than restaurants, which when managed properly, have a lot more control over the environment and can limit exposure. As I drive around the city, I see a lot of places that did not previously have outdo...

My New Orleans   “Haute Plates” has been a column in which I’ve related news about restaurants, written recipes and made comments on food culture generally. That has become problematic – particularly the part where I write about restaurants. There’s news, but it’s not good news for the most part and there are only so many ways to say “takeout” or “Yes, there are outdoor heaters.” Restaurants keep opening, though; for example, Bywater Brew Pub opened recently at Royal and Montegut streets in the eponymous neighborhood. They have an interesting menu. On paper it looks like ...