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Before there was tourism, there was pilgrimage. One writer’s 40,000-mile journey through Bolivia, Mongolia and Iraq reveals the ritual’s enduring transformational power.

El altoLa riojaUttar pradeshLa pazGolden templeAl basrahSantiago de compostelaTito yupanquiIberian peninsulaSpain generalSaint helenaKhabarovskiy kraySaudi arabia generalSaudi arabiaUnited kingdomAli akbar