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After eating a rib eye, you can go sit at the bar and get a cheesesteak made with sustainably raised grass-fed wagyu.

Here’s something that doesn’t come around every day: a tasting menu-focused restaurant that centers on 100 percent grass-fed Wagyu beef. The meaty dream becomes an actual reality starting Thursday with Matu (stylized as matū) in Beverly Hills, thanks to co-founder Jerry Greenberg and his team’s new five-course tasting menu. Let’s start with the opening menu, which could be compared to a Japanese seafood omakase, but for steak. The Wagyu in question at Matu hails from New Zealand’s First Light Farms, and (at least for the tasting menu portion) is spread across a bone broth starter, ...