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) Wine is usually sold to us by country first, with region or grape variety second. But there are plenty of examples of wine cultures that bridge nominal national boundaries, where winemakers have more in common with a supposed foreigner across the valley than a fellow countryman several hundred miles away. The intensely aromatic white wines of Alsace in eastern France, for example, are much more akin to those of their near neighbours in the Pfalz in Germany than the wines of Bordeaux; and it’s very hard to tell apart the wines made in the vineyards either side of the Slovenian and north-eastern Italian border. This sense of shared winemaking ways and styles is also very much apparent in the northwestern corner of Iberia, home to wines such as this subtly honeyed and floral (it’s aptly named), superbly tangy, mouthfilling dry white from the Galician side of the Spanish-Portuguese border. ....