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It is a proud-momma moment when I watch my daughter tear into a chicken foot like it’s no big deal. Because it’s not a big deal. Except, says John Zhao, in a roundabout way, it kind of is. “Fifteen years ago,” says Zhao, owner of the YH Restaurant Group, “American people didn’t know a lot about traditional Chinese food. They didn’t order chicken feet. Ten years ago, the knowledge began to . ....