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Essential California: 20 years of True Tales From Another Mexico
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April 16, 2018
Not long ago, the hills were strung with the clustered pearls of trees. As we drove up the 5 Freeway with the top down, the sugary scent of all those blossoms had a way of lingering.
In a generation, Orange County went from farm to city. From a $30 million cash crop spreading across nearly 70,000 acres at its peak in 1948, the county now has 40 commercial acres of oranges logged by the Orange County Agricultural Commissioner’s Office.
Funny thing about the history of oranges here: When the founders named us Orange County, we weren’t exactly overflowing with citrus. It was 1871, only eight years past a drought that wiped out cattle fortunes and forced the sale and development of huge tracts of land. So it’s possible the branding was something of a gimmick: If we name it, they will come. And come they did the oranges, and the people, too.
MORE “Pico Boulevard plays host to the unglamorous bits of Los Angeles,” wrote the late great food critic Jonathan Gold. “It is at the center of entry-level capitalism in central Los Angeles, and one of the most vital food streets in the world.” Photo by Mike Schlitt.
Pico Boulevard just may be the hardest working street in Los Angeles. It doesn’t have the myth or glamour of Sunset Boulevard, but as the late food critic Jonathan Gold once wrote, “It is at the center of entry-level capitalism in central Los Angeles, and one of the most vital food streets in the world.”