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How Martine Rose Built The Cult Brand Beloved By Rihanna And Drake


When Rose started her label, in 2007, she gained a cult following for her ahead-of-the-curve mix of sportswear, casual wear and tailoring. Yet, at the time, her intentionally awkward collections were misunderstood and dismissed by many. “It hadn’t really punctured through,” she says of the aesthetic that would come to define the way that many dress today. But then, in 2015, everything switched up. Demna Gvasalia had just been appointed creative director of Balenciaga and wanted the brand to show menswear on the runway for the first time. He hired Rose as a consultant. “That really changed my life,” she says. “Demna was so brave in giving me a real shot.” The pair were kindred spirits, and Rose’s signature pieces – cropped bomber jackets with ultra-wide shoulders, purposely drab tracksuits and suit jackets, gleefully playful logos – helped to establish the present-day Balenciaga phenomenon. ....

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