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Araldica Valle Vento Organic Gavi, Italy 2019 (£13.99, Virgin Wines
) All supermarkets have a gavi and usually it’s a dry white that is slightly more interesting than the cheaper generic Italians – the cut-price soaves and pinot grigios – that sit alongside it. Sainsbury’s, Morrisons, Tesco, M&S, Asda… all have decent examples that will not let you down if you’re in the market for a wine to go with chicken roasted with lemon and a handful of herbs, grilled halloumi and roasted vegetables, or a simple fish dish. Many of those good gavi wines are the work of the reliable co-operative Araldica, which is also the name in the small print on many of the best own-label reds from the same northwestern Italian region as gavi: Piedmont. The gavi Araldica makes under its own Valle Vento label is a cut above, though: spotless, clean and lemon-grove scented.

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