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Surrounded by a virtual Instagram grid of perfectly plated street tacos and behind-the-scenes cooking videos is an image of Walter Mercado—a beloved Hispanic astrologer—standing in an embellished pink cape, his hands outstretched as if presenting the overlaid text: “Trans POC eat free.” It’s a policy that speaks to the core of vegan taqueria Mis Tacones’s mission of making Portland’s predominantly white vegan scene more welcoming and accessible for brown, working-class queer people. “I’ve always seen...

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