NewsSportsBusinessRestaurantsOpinionObituariesE-EditionLegals Hello from JLB: Aaaand we're back (I'm sorry, here's a gift!) Our critic has been (really, really) late on this newsletter, and for that she'd like to apologize. And give you something nice. I'm sincerely sorry for that. I could blame all sorts of things: shifting deadlines, the global pandemic, my wonderfully exhausting family. But honestly, I've failed to make this a priority. And the 22,000-some of you who subscribe (I know, right?!) deserve to be a priority. To make up for the — three, four? — newsletters I've delivered this year, I'd like to give you a little something. Not money or free food. Something far