Heriberta Amescua would always laugh when people called the dipping liquid that comes with her quesabirria a sauce. "It's not sauce; it's broth," she'd correct them, sometimes instructing her customers to put some rice, cilantro and onions in the Styrofoam cup that contains the glorious, beefy nectar and drink it like a soothing, savory beverage. It wasn't just culinary semantics that prompted the correction. She didn't care that people got the name right so much as she wanted to share her Mexican culture with those who ate her food. It's what prompted her to start selling birria nearly two decades ago, and it's what animated her decision to open her