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9th century. hand-rolled rice, with a meat filling. breaded and fried. that's good. the taste of arancini, i am told, is the taste of home for all sicilians. just a few miles off the toe of the boot of italy lies the island of sicily it's southernmost region, and with volcanic soil so fertile it's nickname is god's kitchen. but sicily is also said to be home to the gates of hell. impoverished for centuries, conquered by everyone from the arabs to the french and haunted by its mafia connections the locals have learned to make the most of what they've got. in this fiercely traditional region things are changing and i want to discover the effect it's