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create something like a lemon pie and you don't have lemon juice. what do you do? put some vinegar and some nutmeg together and you get that same kind of tang. >> anthony: appalachia has a rich and deep culinary culture. increasingly fetishized, riffed on, appropriated for the genteel tastes of a hipster elite willing to pay big bucks for what used to be, and still is in many cases, the food of poverty. >> mike: we see that ramps are selling for $30 a pound in new york city that we're harvesting in west virginia, and what's west virginia seeing from that? probably a guy that got about $2 a pound. >> emily hillard: it becomes just another extractive industry like coal or timber. and you sort of start to see that -- >> anthony: that's the story of west virginia. >> emily: yeah. >> anthony: chef mike costello and partner amy dawson are looking to keep that culture alive and appreciate it, and paying off locally for the region it originated in.