Airports in East Arnhem Land come without security screening (except Gove) and fat chance of a latte. They're little more than corrugated red mud tracks etched out between trees, barely wide enough for a plane to land. Rivers, creeks and estuaries run wild round here when the rains arrive with summer. You won't get in by road; the only way in or out is by air. The coast, the estuaries and East Arnhem Land's savannah woodlands swarm with salt-water crocs bigger than the tinnies everyone gets about in. This chunk of the Northern Territory is almost the size of England, though its population's just shy of 20,000 (compare that to the latter's 56 million).