The subversive little hot sauce that took on a life of its own
The subversive little hot sauce that took on a life of its own Some of the hot sauces made at Eszett in Silver Lake. (Ricardo DeAratanha / Los Angeles Times) By Stephanie Breijo Print When life gave chef Spencer Bezaire lemons and a shutdown, he made citrusy hot sauce. He also made a batch filled with local kumquats, a fermented-peach variety with Kentucky bourbon and one tinged with blood oranges — and they helped keep his restaurant afloat. Eszett, a neighborhood wine bar and restaurant in Silver Lake, had the misfortune of opening shortly before the pandemic. Like thousands of ...