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Pushpa calls it the Margandam Mutton Sambhar, a popular dish among diners who have dined at her home. The French used to refer to the lamb used in Pondicherian "mouton" (mutton).
“Lunch is ready,” I called out to my husband and daughter, setting the serving dish down on the dining table. On cue, Anoushka, my 14-year-old, reached out to open the lid to check what was inside. We were having khichdi – mashed lentils, diced vegetables and rice topped with caramelised onions. “Did you know that the British kedgeree (a mix of rice, flaked fish and boiled eggs) is inspired by our khichdi?” Anoushka asked, drizzling spoonfuls of ghee (clarified butter) onto the khichdi on her plate. She was studying the colonial history of India for her upcoming exams and trivia was...