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This Japanese vegetable fritter’s name literally translates as “cooked as you like it”, which is perhaps the most important thing you should know about okonomiyaki. Though sold in restaurants, stalls and convenience stores, it’s also easy to make at home: chef Ivan Orkin dubs it “a clean-out-the-fridge-franken-pancake”, which, “as you might guess”, is “usually something you scarf down during a night of drinking ”. Quick, simple and gratifyingly...