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Interesting wines from 'man-made' grape varieties | Wine


Pick of the bunch: ‘Critics are concerned that new varieties developed to be resistant to disease, would displace less hardy, but tastier, traditional varieties.’
Photograph: David Silverman/Getty Images
Nu.Vo.Té, Vin de France 2020 (£9.95, fieldandfawcett.co.uk) The world is not short of wine grape varieties. Wine Grapes, the magnificently authoritative reference book on the subject published in 2012, features some 1,368 of them. France alone officially recognises 250. All of which might make you wonder why we need more. Certainly that’s what some French winemakers were asking when a quartet of new varieties developed by France’s National Institute for Agriculture Research (INRA) and the Institute of Wine and the Vine (IFV) were formally permitted in French vineyards in 2018. The critics were concerned that these new varieties, which were specifically developed to be resistant to disease, would ....

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