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okay, well, i had no idea it was that far. so i've just made my way up thousands of steps to this place, castle brown, which is in portofino, which is in liguria. and liguria is a crescent right on the coast of italy, bordering tuscany and france. they'll carry me out of here on a stretcher, but i don't mind because the food is amazing. >> i'm stanley tucci. i'm fascinated by my italian heritage, so i'm traveling across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. the rugged environment has made the ligurians tough and...

oh, wow. steep. is this -- okay, here we are, finally. i had no idea it was that far. so i've just made my way up thousands of steps to this place, castle brown, which is in portofino, which is in liguria. and liguria is a crescent right on the coast of italy, bordering tuscany and france. they'll carry me out of here on a stretcher, but i don't mind because the food is amazing. >> i'm stanley tucci. i'm fascinated by my italian heritage, so i'm traveling across italy to discover how the food in each of this country's 20 regions is as unique as the people and their past. the rugged e...

Europe in genoa because all of these merchants and wealthy ship captains needed somewhere to put their money. so genoa has a nickname, which is la superba. >> superba means grandiose, splendid, beautiful ornate, but it also means a little bit haughty, a little bit snobbish. >> the place to eat like a merchant prince is the cook, a popular new restaurant of chef ivano rickey buono in a startling 14th century setting. >> wow, wow, wow. oh my god, it's gorgeous. >> we've come to see ivano make a renaissance-era genovese pasta.

Add flavor and then come out again to make a second meaty meal, which is very ligurian . >> while the meat sauce reduces before the pasta is added, laurel and i position ourselves under the frescoes, ready for conspicuous consumption. >> to la superba. >> la superba. and having this restaurant all to ourselves. >> oh, man, couldn't get much better than this. >> hi, chef. >> oh, look at this. >> okay, corzetti. that sauce is gorgeous. >> have you tried the meat yet? >> no, not yet. beautiful. delicate. >> rich but delicate. that should be the new nickname for genoa.

Feed both the workers and the wealthy. the docks made genoa rich. it became known as la superba. but not everybody lived the high life. these are the karugi. back alleys where dock workers and sailors have for centuries come to eat good, simple fare. i'm meeting laurel evans, a relocated texan food writer. >> hello. how are you? >> i'm good. how are you? >> good, good. >> when she married a genovese gentleman, she became a devotee of focaccia, a great working class staple that originated here. >> wow, wow. gorgeous. >> yeah, so this is some of the best focaccia. >> buongiorno, buongiorno. >> t...