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A Former Mister Jiu's Chef Is Stretching Hand-Pulled Noodles at New Pop-Up


Elena Kadvany
For William Lim Do, making hand-pulled noodles is as much a search for identity as a culinary act.
When the San Francisco chef attended a noodle school in Lanzhou, China, his classmates called him “laowai,” which means foreigner in Mandarin. He was hurt at first: He’s part-Chinese, but his classmates didn’t consider him to be. The experience felt like an extension of Do’s upbringing in a Chinese-Cambodian-Vietnamese family in San Francisco, which meant he never fit into a single cultural box. His Cambodian relatives didn’t fully see him as Cambodian, and he never felt wholly connected to his Vietnamese roots during visits to Little Saigon in San Jose. ....

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