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From the Hua family, which owns the Vietnamese soupery Pho Long a few doors west in U. City’s Jeffrey Plaza strip mall, comes Hooked, a casual, American-style seafood shack. Fried seafood abounds: shrimp, calamari, oysters. The shrimp po’ boy features crisp, plump morsels overflowing from a crusty baguette. A cluster of snow crab legs, simply steamed and served with drawn butter is worth the (relative) indulgence, pricewise. Pho Long fans should check the back page of the menu: The kitchen demos new dishes for that restaurant here.

Pho Long isn't your typical 100-plus-selection Vietnamese restaurant. It specializes in pho, the traditional Vietnamese noodle soup. But you don't need much more than a bowl of good pho for a fast, satisfying meal. Pho Long's great: thin rice noodles, onions and scallions in beef broth, customized with your choice of meats - eye round steak or flank steak are the straightforward choices; oxtail or beef meatballs offer a heartier, earthier flavor; tripe and tendon give the full, authentic experience - fresh herbs, jalapeños and lime. Best of all, pho is good for breakfast, lu...