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The bacon butty is a uniquely British phenomenon – a cultural icon that unites us all There aren’t many things you can get at both the Phil-U-Up Burger Van at B&Q Leatherhead and Buckingham Palace, but a bacon sandwich is one of them. “When a woman asks for back, I call her ‘madam’. When she asks for streaky, I call her ‘dear’.” This quote from a grocer in Jilly Cooper’s 1979 book Class neatly illustrates the peculiar relationship between food and status in this country – as Pen Vogler notes in last year’s Scoff, “most Brits could read a shopping basket as though ...

Mary Berry made headlines when she left ‘The Great British Bake Off,’ but that was not the only scandal the show has ever seen.

Food, taste and class. This is an online event hosted on the British Library platform. Bookers will be sent a link in advance giving access and will be able to watch at any time for 48 hours after the start time. Do you have avocado or beans on toast? Put the milk in your tea first or last? And is your evening meal tea, dinner or supper? Come and explore how our eating habits are, and always have been, loaded with centuries of class prejudice. With Pen Vogler, whose recent book Scoff: A History of Food and Class in Britain reveals how food and eating have long reflected and have been used t...

Rhubarb Collins with gin, prosecco, lemon juice, rhubarb juice and hibiscus syrup. Photograph: Getty Images When I was growing up in the US, people sometimes spoke of rhubarb – they seemed mildly amused by the word – but no one I knew ever ate it. I don’t think I’d ever really seen any until I came to the UK, where – from my point of view, at least – people got a little too excited about the annual arrival of this pink dessert celery. Rhubarb is a vegetable masquerading as fruit, and as such requires a bit of su...

Last modified on Thu 11 Mar 2021 11.32 EST It must be difficult to deliver recipes in a pioneering way. This is because, in the cookbook, the form has already reached its apex. If you’ve never used a cookbook before, you’re really missing out. You open the book at the correct page, and then all the information just stays exactly where it is until you don’t need it any more. It’s brilliant, maybe even unimprovable. But trying telling that to Ruby Tandoh, who is about to release the future of cookbooks in Breaking Eggs. Imagine an audiobook that tells you how to bake things – that’s...