The Confused History of Estimating Wave Height
Community It doesn’t necessarily get any easier to tell the height of a wave from the water. Photo: Brent Storm//Unsplash Editor’s Note: Welcome to Surf History 101, where we look at innovations in the world of surfing and beyond that changed the pursuit forever. In this edition, Sam George examines the history of measuring waves and how it’s shaped the pursuit. What Is It The decades-long custom of ignoring actual wave height, choosing instead to declaratively assert an estimate – the assigned figure having been reached in a completely arbitrary manner. Who Developed ...
Source: theinertia.com