The story behind that odd pantry in the wall in old SF homes
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An example of a California cooler.Becky Duffett
Living in an older San Francisco building can come with its quirks. Maybe yours has a tiny cabinet concealing an ironing board or perhaps there’s a mysterious lever at the top of a long flight of stairs that used to open the front door. If your home was built sometime between 1890 and 1930, you likely have (or had) what’s called a “California cooler.”
Also known as a pie safe, this pantry/cabinet is built into an exterior wall of a home, usually in the kitchen, with venting built into that wall to let the cool, foggy air keep your produce cold. Fine mesh usually covers the vent from the inside to prevent flies or any other pesky pests from getting through, and the shelves are made of small wood slats or wire so air can circulate through the shelving. Some have vents above and below the cabinet as well, allowing the hot air to rise through the o