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Goode knew nothing about commercial pit barbecue. The beginning was a nightmare. “There were these big stoves, giant spoons, forks, and knives,” he recalls with visible discomfort. He burned up a lot of meat at first. But things began to change slowly. He and his uncle Joe, a cook in the Air Force, took turns sleeping in the kitchen with a shotgun for protection Kirby was not so chic a mere fifteen years ago and they kept a record of the fire and the meat. Jim began to get the hang of it. On Sundays he drove out to Burnet to load up on mesquite, which he stacked around the outside of the building to show people he used real wood. To find the best sausage, he traveled all over South Texas until he settled on a Czech sausagemaker in Weimar.

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