André Simon Awards book extract: Inside Bordeaux

Ahead of this year’s André Simon Food and Drink Book Awards, 
db is running extracts of all of the shortlisted drinks titles. The final work is
Inside Bordeaux: the châteaux, their wines and the terroir by Jane Anson.
Is it possible to write something new on a region that has been so widely covered, studied, dissected, discarded, rediscovered, fought over, loved, despised… rinse-and-repeat?
I hope that even a brief dip into
Inside Bordeaux will answer that question, and show that despite often being presented as set in stone, Bordeaux is continually evolving and constantly worth assessing afresh.
When I moved here in 2003, the region was in the heat of the garagiste movement where 200 per cent new oak was something to be proud of, and ‘hang-time’ was the word of the day. As we stand now, more than sixteen years later, there is a clear evolution towards fresher, more sculpted wines, and towards winemaking that takes far more account of what happens in the vineyard – not just in the cellar. A changing climate is demanding that we ask new questions about what does and doesn’t work in the growing of vines; a new generation of winemakers is demanding that changes are made.

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