Though the winners throughout the 2021 Oscars spoke to a sea change in terms of the scope of talent being nurtured in Hollywood and beyond, when it came to the “most watched runway” in the world, the momentum of progress seemed to stop in its tracks. Many fashion insiders and fans alike were hoping to see names like Christopher John Rogers (a current semi-finalist for the LVMH Prize and 2019’s winner of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund), Sergio Hudson (who outfitted Michelle Obama for January’s U.S. presidential inauguration festivities) and Claude Kameni (whose designs were worn by Viola Davis for the most recent Golden Globes) get checked when “What are you wearing?” was asked on the red carpet. But the labels that largely appeared were disappointingly the industry heavy-hitters — predominantly led by white designers — that we’re used to. Valentino (worn by both Zendaya