After carefully removing the cork I stick my nose into the bottle and take a deep breath. I get a hint of possibly moss and rain-dappled oaks. Possibly. And then it’s all gone. I have just consumed one of the most expensive bottled products available: a £25 bottle of English Air, which the label explains is ‘collected by hand in the Yorkshire Dales’. You might think it’s a snip compared with a bottle of 2015 Domaine de la Romanee Conti, at an eye-watering £24,000. But at least with the Burgundy you get all evening to enjoy it. The English Air is gone in two seconds.