Most Hongkongers are familiar with Yung Kee, the three-storey restaurant on Wellington Street, in Central, where myth has always had it that the higher the floor, the more expensive the dining experience. Best known for its charcoal roast-goose dish, concocted by founder Kam Shui Fai over 80 years ago, the more recent buzz centred on the second generation’s long-drawn-out legal...