Fashion is cyclical. Trends have a life, they die, and then — at some point — experience a rebirth. Take acid-wash jeans, for instance. In the 1980s, everyone from Madonna to tennis star Andre Agassi wore them. Then they were ostracized as "uncool." But a trip to any department store today will find an ample supply of acid-wash "mom jeans," there to be scooped up by "on trend" social-media fashionistas. Food, like fashion, also has its moments. Dishes like beef Wellington or a caesar salad prepared tableside are considered "trite" until a chef like Thomas Keller puts a stunning rendition on his menu at the Surf Club Restaurant and gives the doddering old staples a new lease on life.