It began with truffles. White ones, from Alba, shaved over a butter-daubed wedge of dough, then ditto with a heady black variety from Irpinia. Seated in the courtyard of the famed.
Over three life-affirming days of gluttony and bliss, I toured Campania’s most hallowed outposts offering pizza tasting menus to see how the area is ennobling its si.
For an Italian tour that messes nicely with tradition, head to Naples, the birthplace of pizza, where some masterful pizzaoli have elevated this humble treasure to tasting-menu status.