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It began with truffles. White ones, from Alba, shaved over a butter-daubed wedge of dough, then ditto with a heady black variety from Irpinia. Seated in the courtyard of the famed. ....
For an Italian tour that messes nicely with tradition, head to Naples, the birthplace of pizza, where some masterful pizzaoli have elevated this humble treasure to tasting-menu status. ....