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Deaths in the Karakorum: Sergi Mingote and Alex Goldfarb

Sergi Mingote on Lhotse. Photo: Sergi Mingote.
As is often true in the mountains, triumph has walked hand in hand with tragedy this winter in the Karakorum. The first winter ascent of K2 (8,848 meters), undertaken by a fully Nepalese team (with co-leader Nirmal “Nims” Purja summiting without bottled oxygen), has captivated viewers around the globe. Sadly, just prior to the ascent, the Spaniard Sergi Mingote, Co-Leader of the Seven Summits Treks (SST) team on K2, perished after a long fall while descending to Advanced Base Camp from Camp 1 (6,050 meters).
The 49-year-old Mingote was attempting to summit K2 without bottled oxygen this winter, and had already tackled seven 8000ers without O2. He was in the process of attempting to summit all 14 8,000-meter peaks in the same style, all within a 1,000-day push, a potentially record-breaking project he called the “14X1000 Catalonia Project” (the endeavor was interrupted due to COVID-19).

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K2 Climbed in Winter for the First Time!

Inspired by Everest’s first winter summit in 1980, a 1983 Polish expedition went to K2 in the winter for reconnaissance. They found byzantine logistics, uncooperative government authorities, and costs that exceeded the most generous budgets. Now, 38 years later, K2 has been summited in the winter.
Around 5:00 pm on Saturday, January 16, 2021, a team of 10 Sherpas and Nepalis stood on the summit of the world’s second-highest mountain, K2, on the border of Pakistan and China. It was the last of the world’s 14 8,000 meter peaks still unclimbed in winter. They are positioning the summit as a victory for Nepal and the Sherpa nation. All 10 climbers stopped 30 feet below the summit on a relatively safe spot (still on a 40-degree snow slope at 28,200-feet) so that they could summit together in a sign of solidarity. No individual was listed as first.

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Alan Arnette: Winter K2 Update | Summit Push in a Few Hours!

— Sona Sherpa
Nims will lead the summit team and has suggested there will be no one person claiming the summit but rather a team summit on behalf of Nepal. This has been Mingma G.’s plan all along with his Sherpa-only team.
Nims’ summit team is also made up of only Sherpa. One Sherpa from Seven Summits Treks is also on the summit push.
Both gentlemen, Mingma and Nims, have expressed a deep desire to show the world that Nepalis are just as credible climbers as any other nationality on the planet.
Alan Arnette
is a speaker, mountaineer and Alzheimer’s Advocate. He has completed over 30 major expeditions including four Everest climbs, with a summit in 2011, and a summit of K2 in 2014. He completed his 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s project to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s research. Find out more at www.alanarnette.com.

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Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan discusses current efforts

Alpinist.com
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Four expeditions are attempting the first winter ascent of K2: Alex Gavan discusses current efforts
Derek Franz
UPDATE, January 16:A team of 10 Nepali/Sherpa climbers from separate expeditions climbed the final meters to the summit together as one group at 5 p.m., completing K2's first winter ascent. You can find our story about that here.
UPDATE, January 15:Alan Arnette reports that a new all-time winter high point has been attained—7800 meters—by Mingma Gyalje Sherpa and Seven Summit Treks leaders Mingma David Sherpa, Mingma Tenzi Sherpa and Sona Sherpa. They have reached Camp 4 and hope to stand on the summit within the next 24 hours.

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