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May 30, 2021
In an age where the internet provides an abundance of information, to still be unaware of the varieties of Japanese cuisine could be seen as a form of self-exile from pleasure. While curating a list of the “best” nonfiction on the topic is certainly subjective, the following books, which offer immersive writing based on research and firsthand impressions and encounters, make for a nourishing reading experience.
“A Taste of Japan” by Donald Richie (1985)
Kodansha, 112 pages
For an elegantly composed introduction to Japanese cuisine, “A Taste of Japan” is hard to beat. Though not a food writer per se, Donald Richie, like the Japanese novelist and gourmet Junichiro Tanizaki, possessed a rare and subtle palate. Richie was the ultimate sampler; everything, even the most common dishes, had to be tried and tested.
In search of ragù Bolognese
April 3, 2021
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Osteria dell Orsa, Bologna
On my first night in one of Bologna s cheap osterias, I realized that ragù Bolognese is about meat, not dairy.
My journey to uncover the authentic ragù Bolognese started at Osteria dell Orsa in a narrow alley in Bologna. The small eatery had been recommended by Matt Goulding, my guide and author of
Pasta, Pane, Vino, as a cheap spot that does a respectable job with local classics.
Seated at a common wooden table in the front dining room off the kitchen, I ordered the tagliatelle with ragù Bolognese (the other mainstay is tortellini in brodo), greens that turned out to be a bowl of iceberg-like lettuce, and a quartino of potable house wine.
Paella is precious in Valencia, Spain. Food writer Matt Goulding asserts that you can find the entire history of Spain within the perimeter of the paella pan. The key to the dish is the rice and saffron.
Listen 57 min MORE America has its wheat, the world has its rice. Good Food focuses on the long and short of this global staple. Photo by Nik Sharma.
Whether cooking basmati, jasmine or red, everyone has a way to make rice. Measure up to the first knuckle? Wash until the water runs clear? Stovetop or rice cooker with bells and whistles? This week, Good Food gets granular with rice how it s grown, how it s cooked, and how it s eaten. Dr. Amber Spry opens her identity politics class each semester by asking students to share how their family cooked rice. Culinarian historian Michael Twitty shares how red rice came to the American South by way of Western African. Rice royalty Robin Koda documents her family’s legacy of growing Japanese rice in California. Matt Goulding explores the controversy over paella in Spain. The history of the rice cooker is explained by Anne Ewbank. Finally, Sophia Parsa is making tahd